Hiking the "O" Trek - Torres del Paine
So you’ve decided to hike the infamous, 70+ mile “O” Trek through Torres del Paine National Park…
Pre-Planning
I can’t say enough good things about this trek. We jokingly called the “O” Trek the “land of default desktop backgrounds” because the scenery was that unreal. This will be a very rewarding and enjoyable experience even if you are a seasoned thru-hiker. However, you know what’s not enjoyable? The planning. Organizing flights, booking transportation to the park, finding provisions, and (the worst of them all) booking the campsites. Yep…booking your campsites and planning out the logistics of your trek will most likely be more difficult than the actual hike itself. Ready to get started? Good! Let’s go!
FINDING THE RIGHT FLIGHTS & WHEN TO TRAVEL
Right. So the first thing you will need to do is actually GET to Torres del Paine. So when is the best time to go? Peak season in Torres del Paine National Park is December through March, and many blogs and travel guides will tell you that the best time to visit is January or February. I disagree. In my opinion, the best time to travel to this region (specifically Torres del Paine) is in mid to late November. While you run the risk of leftover snow at high altitudes and chillier temperatures, the chances of precipitation and the ultra strong Patagonia winds the region is known for are less likely to be a factor in November. The weather in Patagonia can change in seconds, so nothing is ever guaranteed. But, when we compared the weather we had vs what some of our friends experienced during Jan and Feb, the November weather was MUCH better. There are a few other outdoor travel bloggers out there that have come to this same conclusion, so do your self a favor and consider taking your trip towards the end of November.
There are a few other benefits of going early on in the season as well:
A higher likelihood of getting your first-choice campsites and therefore your best itinerary (more on that later)
Fewer crowds
Spring wildflowers will be in bloom and baby animals will be all over the place
Once you have decided on your dates, you will book your flights into Puerto Natales, Chile - also known as the backpacker’s base camp for Torres del Paine. When flying from the United States, we found that the best thing for us to do was take a direct flight to Lima, Peru, collect our bags, and continue on with South American based airlines from there (the two big ones you will use are Sky and Latam). Sky Airline is based out of Santiago, Chile and most of their flights run trough that hub. The best thing about Sky? It’s SO CHEAP! Like seriously guys, so so cheap. You will find one way domestic flights for well under $50. We traveled all over Chile on Sky and I distinctly remember paying USD $12/person for a one way base domestic fare. No jokes. The other good thing is that their baggage fees are extremely reasonable. Usually, carry on bags are included in the base fare, and adding additional checked bags is really inexpensive through their fare upgrade program. For the absolute best prices, be prepared to only bring carry on luggage or pick up your checked bags at each leg of your trip (I know it sucks, but you can seriously save hundreds of dollars doing it this way).
**Side Note: we had additional bags because we were spending a couple months traveling all over South america and needed LOTS of different gear. Chances are if you’re only going down to backpack the “O” Trek, you will be able to get away with simply carrying on your backpack and not have to worry about the checked bags dilemma.
[[IMPORTANT: Remember that little piece of paper you received at the airport when you first flew into Chile or Argentina? YOU NEED TO KEEP THAT! That is your visa (proof of legality in the country), and you will need it to enter and exit the country it was issued in. DO NOT LOSE THIS!]]
The airport in Puerto Natales is a little ways out of town, so you will need to take a taxi or a shuttle bus from the airport to your accommodations. For my Uber users out there: Uber will show drivers available in the area, but you’re better off just taking a taxi. Uber is few and far between in Puerto Natales which translates to long wait times. Furthermore, they are actually more expensive than the taxi drivers, and the taxi drivers know the area like the back of their hand. Most of the drivers that work the airport also speak a little English and will want to get to know you and show you their amazing home. LET THEM! Our driver practically gave us a complete Puerto Natales history lesson in the 13 min we spent in his cab. It was very cool. While I always recommend having local currency on you before you arrive in a foreign country, don’t sweat it if you don’t have any Chilean Pesos when you arrive at the airport; most of the taxi drivers will accept USD.
BOOKING YOUR CAMPSITES
Ah yes…the dreaded Torres del Paine campsite booking puzzle. Ask anyone who has completed this trek and they will all tell you the same thing: booking campsites is such a pain in the a$$! Ok, so here are the basic things you need to understand before you start booking your campsites:
All of your campsites must be booked, paid for, and confirmed before you enter the park. No exceptions. Print out your confirmations and be prepared to present them to park administration along with your passport before you are allowed to enter.
You MUST carry your campsite bookings with you for the duration of the trek. For your own safety, some trails close after certain times of day and the rangers along the way will want to see your campsite confirmations to prove that you have sufficient time to make it to your next campsite.
There are three different organizations that run the campsites: Vertice Patagonia, Fantastico Sur, and CONAF. You must book each campsite separately and through their respective organization - more on that later.
You may only backpack the “O” Trek counterclockwise. This is different than the regulations on the “W” Trek, which you can complete in either direction.
This was my first draft at planning our “O” Trek itinerary. Spoiler - I had to redo this multiple times due to campsite availability issues…
So that doesn’t seem too complicated right? Wrong. Each organization doesn’t control a block of campsites all nicely placed in a row…they are spread out and intermingled in between each other. Furthermore, some are in higher demand than others, so if you thought you were going to book them all nicely in a row, have a backup plan. In order to get your first choice campsites, book as early as possible. Some campsites (especially the free CONAF sites) can book almost a full year in advance. Most of the backpackers we met on the trail (ourselves included) had to base their entire itinerary around which campsites were available on which days. Oh, and Vertice Patagonia’s online booking system almost NEVER works.
Here is a list of the campsites in order along with the organization that manages them, and their prices (USD) for a basic site with two people. There are two places you can start the “O” Trek - The ferry dock near Paine Grande, and the Las Torres Hotel. For the sake of this list, we are going to assume you will start at Las Torres Hotel (which I will recommend that you do later in this article):
Camping Seron - Fantastico Sur - $42
Camping Dickson - Vertice Patagonia - $18
Los Perros - Vertice Patagonia - $18
Camping Paso - CONAF - FREE
Camping Grey - Vertice Patagonia - $22
Paine Grande - Vertice Patagonia - $22
Italiano - CONAF - FREE
Camping Frances - Fantastico Sur - $42
Los Cuernos - Fantastico Sur - $42
Chileno - Fantastico Sur - $42
Camping Central (Torre Central) - Fantasitico Sur - $42
Fantastico Sur and CONAF’s online booking systems are fairly straightforward and I didn’t have any issues completing my bookings and receiving my confirmation emails from these campsites. Vertice Patagonia however… !*&#%^$. Vertice’s online system requires you to enter dates for ALL of their campsites, regardless of whether or not your itinerary warrants you staying at them. Furthermore, if one of their campsites is unavailable on the day you need it, the website will not let you continue. I went around and around with this service until I finally gave up and emailed Vertice…to which I received no reply. A week later, I called their office and after multiple tries was able to get someone on the phone. Once I actually spoke with someone from the office, everything went much smoother. I explained my situation to her, she requested that I follow up with another email, and later that day my campsites were booked. I paid using a PayPal link in the confirmation email. My advice? Unless you are booking far in advance or intend to stay at all of their campsites, just skip the online platform and call the office. It will save you hours of pain and suffering.
For even more information on how to book your campsites, check out my ultra thorough guide: How to Book Your Campsites - Torres del Paine.
Side note: if you are intending to skip Los Perros and go straight from Camping Dickson to Camping Paso, you must book Paso first and show that booking to Vertice as proof of accommodation. Without that proof, Vertice will require you to also book Los Perros. This has to do with the distance and altitude of the trail between Dickson and Paso, as well as the distance to the next available campsite.
Ok, so now that you know the ins and outs of HOW to book your campsites, the next question is WHICH campsites to book. Let’s start with this super helpful distance guide that can only be found on the maps that get handed out when you enter the park:
Apologies for the quality of the photo…this map took a beating…
As I mentioned previously, unless you book WELL in advance, the campsites you book will largely depend on what is available. Moral of the story? Be prepared to make changes to your itinerary. As an example, here is the itinerary we ended up with:
Day 1: Bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amagara. Bus from Laguna Amagara to Las Torres Hotel. First leg of the trek - Las Torres Hotel to Camping Seron
Day 2: Camping Seron to Camping Dickson
Day 3: Camping Dickson to Camping Paso
Day 4: Camping Paso to Paine Grande
Day 5: Paine Grande to Camping Frances
Day 6: Camping Frances to Camping Central
Day 7: Camping Central to Base Las Torres (day hike style - we left our tent and most of our gear at Camping Central), then back to Central to pack up our gear and pack out to Las Torres hotel where we caught the bus back to Puerto Natales.
We really loved this itinerary. It was a fairly fast pace, and if you only have a week to spend in the park, this is a great itinerary to follow. However, we were not able to hike up Valle Frances to Mirador Britanica due to inclement weather. We had intended to make that trip on Day 5 on the way to Camping Frances. It would not have changed our itinerary at all, just made it a bit more difficult. This itinerary is feasible for anyone who is in decent physical condition, and who has previously completed a multi-day thru hike.
If you’re worried about long distances, steep inclines, and trail closure times, then I recommend an itinerary that looks more like this:
Day 1: Bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amagara. Bus from Laguna Amagara to Las Torres Hotel. First leg of the trek - Las Torres Hotel to Camping Seron
Day 2: Camping Seron to Camping Dickson
Day 3: Camping Dickson to Los Perros
Day 4: Los Perros to Camping Paso
Day 5: Camping Paso to Camping Grey
Day 6: Camping Grey to Paine Grande
Day 7: Paine Grande to Italiano or Camping Frances, day hike up Valle Frances to Mirador Britanica
Day 8: Italiano/Frances to Camping Central or Chileno
Day 9: Day hike to Base Las Torres, then down to Las Torres Hotel to catch the bus back to Puerto Natales
Before You Go
So you’ve got your campsites booked and you’ve just touched down in Puerto Natales. Now what?
Chow time at The Singing Lamb! Cerveza Austral - Torres del Paine = BEST BEER EVER MADE
CHOOSING A HOSTEL OR HOTEL
Presumably, you’ve booked lodging for a night or two in town before you start the trek. I recommend spending at least two nights in Puerto Natales before departing for Torres del Paine. Why? Jet lag. Even if you’re staying in the same longitudinal time zone, you’re heading into the very high latitudes (51° South actually…) most likely in summer which means that you’re in for some looooonnnngggg days. Last light at those latitudes in the summer doesn’t come until almost midnight, and sunrise starts at about 4am. It’s going to take your body a couple days to adjust its circadian rhythm to that weirdness. Here are a couple recommendations on where to stay before your trip:
Hostels:
Hotels:
The four accommodations listed above all have excellent locations in close proximity to supermarkets, camping stores, and local foodie hot spots (The Singing Lamb and Vinnhaus both have in-house restaurants serving up some amazing local dishes!). Eratic Rock also has Torres del Paine briefings at least once/week which offer great local info an knowledge in case you want one last run-down before you hit the trail. Lastly, all of these locations offer luggage storage while you are on the trek in case there is something you don’t want to take on the trail with you.
PROVISIONS
This section is going to cover what you can find in Puerto Natales (and more importantly what you CAN’T), which supermarkets are best, and what will be available to you along the trail. For a full checklist of exactly what items I recommend packing for the “O” Trek, check out my Essential “O” Trek Provisioning List.
Packing and repacking…and packing and repacking…
The two main supermarkets in Puerto Natales are Unimarc and Express Market. Unimarc is a commonly found Chilean franchise and is a quick walk from any of the lodging accommodations I listed above. Express Market is a little farther (about a 20-25 minute walk from the main part of town), but is definitely worth going to. EVERYONE who is in town planning to head out to Torres del Paine provisions at the Unimarc, which can sometimes mean bare shelves. However, they have an excellent selection and an amazing dried fruit and nut kiosk right inside the door. Express Market is a bit smaller and doesn’t have the same level of selection, but because it’s farther out of town, you are likely to find things in stock here that have been totally picked over at the Unimarc.
On the list of things you will not find ANYWHERE is pouches of tuna or chicken (a US backpacker’s staple!). Nope. None of that here. If you want tuna, be prepared to carry all that extra weight and trash in cans. Needless to say, we passed on the canned tuna. Instead we went for cured meats like prosciutto and sliced salami; high caloric density for a relatively light weight and LOTS of yummy options.
Another thing that we couldn’t find: granola bars or protein bars. It’s very difficult and slightly dodgy to bring food into Chile (if they catch you they will make you throw it all away), but I might try to pack a box of protein bars on our next trip down. I was missing those at breakfast time on the trail.
Lastly…and this is the big one…it is extremely difficult to find PEANUT BUTTER in Puerto Natales! I think this is largely due to the fact that during the high season there are tons of backpackers provisioning up for their treks. All the stores we went to had spaces on the shelf for it, but were completely sold out. We ended up packing Nutella instead, but the nutrient/oz ratio is nowhere near as good as peanut butter. Here are three peanut butter tips we found out after our trip that we wish we would have known before we left:
Ask around at the hostels and hotels. Lots of people that just came off the trail will have half-used jars of peanut butter that they no longer have a use for. See if there’s a good Samaritan out there that will let you pinch their leftovers.
Check the smaller convenience store type markets. There are tons of “tuc-shop” or kiosk like markets in Puerto Natales. We ran into one resilient Kiwi backpacker who went to 6 of these small shops until he found one that had some peanut butter on the shelf. That’s dedication!
If you can’t find any in Puerto Natales, don’t sweat it. About half of the campsites along the trail have small re-provision markets, and every one we came across was fully stocked with peanut butter. Now, you’re going to pay about 3x as much as you would have in Puerto Natales…but hey, that’s how supply and demand works I guess.
Don’t concern yourself with drinking water. Ice cold, crystal clear streams and rivers can be found all over the park. Not only is this water perfectly safe to drink, it’s absolutely delicious! We packed Life Straws just in case, but never even took them out.
One final note on provisions: open fires are NOT ALLOWED in Torres del Paine National Park, so make sure to pick up some fuel for your camping stove before you head out. Cooking with camping stoves is only allowed in small, designated areas. Bear this in mind when planning your meals and deciding on provisions. Most of the time the kitchen tents are overcrowded, and making an elaborate camping meal is not only a waste of time, but inconsiderate to others who need use the space as well. Keep your meals simple and your space tidy.
Getting Around
Aside from provisioning, the other important thing you’ll need to do once you arrive in Puerto Natales is book your bus ticket (or ferry ticket) to Torres del Paine. This can be done online in advance, but we found it to be much easier to simply walk into the bus line office and take care of it in person. Same goes for the ferries, but I would recommend taking the bus as it provides a much nicer flow to the “O” Trek itinerary.
Packed, strapped and waiting for the bus on the morning of our departure!
There are multiple bus lines to pick from, and honestly, any of them are perfectly fine. We went with Buses Fernandez and it was your typical, average charter bus experience. We bought one-way tickets as we were unsure exactly what time we wanted to come back to Puerto Natales on our last day. However there is an option to buy round-trip tickets at a slightly discounted rate. If you do one-way tickets like we did, you can easily purchase your return ticket at Las Torres Hotel on the day you pack out. Similarly, if you are leaving from Paine Grande on the Ferry, you can purchase those tickets at Park Administration.
The bus station you depart from is an easy morning walk from any of the lodging accommodations listed above - about 20-25 minutes. The ride from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park entrance is about two and a half hours…most of which I slept through (hey! It was early!). The fist stop is at Laguna Amarga reception station. This is where you will purchase your park entry tickets (USD $32/person, but can only be paid in Chilean Pesos! No foreign currency and no cards), disclose your intended amount of time in the park, prove you booked your campsites (make sure you also bring your passport!), and watch a short safety video.
Ok, just to recap…when you arrive to Laguna Amarga you will need your campsite reservations, your passport, and enough Chilean pesos to pay your park entrance fee.
After this you have two options:
Walk the rest of the way to Las Torres Hotel - 12.7k or about 2.5 hours
Take another bus to Las Torres Hotel - USD $3/person and about 10 minutes
To save time, we took the additional bus. The walk from Laguna Amarga to Las Torres Hotel is mostly following the road, and we figured we would give ourselves more time for the good stuff.
Once you get to Las Torres Hotel, there is a small gift shop/cafe. It’s worth taking a look around in here before you set out on the trail. There are some very cool topographic maps that will give you a better idea of what you’re in for (and if you’re a map dork like me…help you with visual navigation later on). There is also a painting on the wall listing the amenities at each campsite. I am going to go into detail about all of that later, but I took a photo of this wall before we left so that I would have that with me along the way for planning purposes. I recommend you do the same, or print out the campsite info section of this article and take it with you.
All that stands in your way now is one CONAF ranger who will do a final check on your park entry stamp and your passport, then it’s time to start the trek…
The Trek
There’s something really special about taking your first steps onto the trail. All your hard work and painstaking planning has finally paid off! I don’t know how it will effect you, but I was like a 6 year old at Disney World when I walked into the park proper. Seriously, I think I actually giggled.
We’re finally here!!!
As I mentioned previously, I’m going to recommend and assume that you are starting your trek at Las Torres Hotel. Here are my reasons for preferring to start here as opposed to starting at Paine Grande:
Starting at Las Torres Hotel and heading toward Camping Seron will take you to the “O,” or back part of the circuit first. If you’re like me, when you go backpacking you want to get AWAY from the rest of humanity. While you will still run into people on the back side of the trail, it won’t be jam packed like the “W” or front side of the circuit will be.
Each campsite is set up differently and offers different amenities. The campsites on the “O” side of the circuit are significantly more rustic than those on the “W” side. For example, many campsites on the “W” side offer hot meals and mixed drinks. On the “O” side, you’re lucky to get hot water. By starting at Las Torres, you get the rustic campsites out of the way early, and about halfway through the trek (when you’re starting to feel a little deprived) you will have the option of a hot meal, hot shower, and even wifi in some locations.
This route also helps with provisioning/meal planning and keeping pack weights down. It gives you the option to pack less food since you will be able to eat some of your meals later in the trek at the refugios on the “W” side, which will significantly reduce your overall pack weight due to the number of days you will have to carry a full pack.
Disclaimer: I ALWAYS recommend packing enough food to get you by for the full duration of any backpacking adventure because you just never know what’s going to happen. This tip is strictly meant to serve as a guideline and to demonstrate the options available to you on this specific trail. I DO NOT ENDORSE UNDER-PACKING YOUR PROVISIONS!
Ok, now that that you’ve read my rant about where to start an why, let’s get going!
Las Torres Hotel to Camping Seron: 13k - 4 hours
Your first day will be fairly simple and quick. There are no excessively steep inclines on this part of the trail. You will get a gradual rise up, and a gradual decline back down until you reach the valley where you will find Camping Seron. The only challenging thing about this part of the trail is actually finding it in some locations. We were there the week after a massive rain storm and the park was extremely muddy. Some parts of the trail had washed out or had actually been taken over by small streams. Furthermore, this part of the trail passes through a fair amount of private farm land (or what used to be). Don’t be discouraged by fences or pastures. Just keep following the orange markers and the other hiker’s footprints and you’ll be fine.
Camping Seron to Camping Dickson: 18k - 6 hours
This part of the trail is also pretty easy to navigate…after you get over the first big rise. We packed up camp and were on the trail by about 830am, and by 9ish we had come to the first steep climb of the trail. I don’t know if it was just because I was still tired or I wasn’t expecting it, but for some reason, this upward hike kicked my butt! I was definitely puffing by the time I made it to the top. But the view on the other side made the effort totally worth it. This is the part of the trail where you start getting out of the mountain foothills and into the jagged peaks. And the good news? After that short rise, the rest of the trail to Dickson is a piece of cake.
Camping Dickson to Los Perros: 11.8k - 4.5 hours
Dickson to Los Perros is tied for my favorite section of the trail. The diversity you will see on this part of the hike is absolutely insane! You will trek through diverse forests, skirt the edge of the tree line, see incredible valleys, cross bridges over raging blue rivers, and walk the rim of an iceberg packed glacial terminus lake. And you will do all this in a little over 4 hours. The scenery changes so quickly from one beautiful view to the next that you’ll arrive at Los Perros in what seems like the blink of an eye. We stopped to have lunch at Los Perros, but did not spend the night here. Instead we pressed on to Camping Paso.
Los Perros to Camping Paso: 8k - 6 hours
In case the distance to time ratio of this segment of trail didn’t tip you off, this is the tough section. You will face a 600 meter vertical rise over only about 4k to the top of Paso John Gardner. Then, once you think “yes! Its all downhill from here!” Well….it is. It’s a very very long and steep downhill to Camping Paso. But the good news is you will be rewarded 10 times over with stunning views, an incredible sense of accomplishment and a picturesque campsite on the other side. My best advise for this part of the trail? Take your time and don’t over exhaust yourself. The way up can be exceptionally tricky and slippery if there’s snow, and the way down…well lets just say it wouldn’t end well if you tripped. If you haven’t broken out your trekking poles just yet, now is the time. But trust me, this will be one of your favorite sections of trail. It’s tied for my favorite for sure. Lastly, don’t trust the distance markers on the down side of Paso John Gardner, otherwise you’ll be walking the longest 1.8k of your life. Seriously, someone nailed that sign to the WRONG tree…
Camping Paso to Camping Grey: 7k - 5 hours (although it only took us 3.5 hours)
After the long hike the day previous (we went all the way from Dickson to Paso - 20k and about 10 hours), we slept in a bit before departing for Camping Grey. We assumed this delay was going to put us WAY behind, as we were going all the way through Grey to Paine Grande. However we were very surprised with how quickly we navigated this part of the circuit. What was marked on the map as a 5 hour hike got us into Camping Grey in about 3.5 hours. Remember what I said about not trusting the distances on the way to Camping Paso? Yeah, same goes for pretty much the rest of the trail from here. This segment is really fun because of the famous suspension bridges - three to be exact - all spanning gigantic chasms next to Grey Glacier. It’s pretty amazing. Once you get to Camping Grey there are numerous glacier excursions you can take for the chance to see Grey Glacier up close and personal. To do it all over again, I would have definitely stopped and spent the night here just for the time to walk the glacier or kayak to the face.
Camping Grey to Paine Grande: 11k - 3.5 hours (…although this part took us 5 hours)
So here we go again with the wonky distances/times. All in all, the hike from Camping Paso to Paine Grande took us a total of about 8 hours, so when you put the two legs together, I suppose it’s correct. Like I said…just take all the signage with a grain of salt. This part is where the scenery totally changes. Instead of walking through jagged mountain peaks, high altitude forests and skirting a massive glacier, you will transition into terrain that resembles something more like the American Southwest. The stark contrast between the different areas of the park is breathtaking. This section has some pretty rough and rocky terrain, so be prepared for lots of quick ups and downs. Waiting for you on the other side is Paine Grande campground; the largest and by far the most well outfitted campsite on the whole trek.
Paine Grande to Italiano or Camping Frances: 7.5k (Italiano), 9.5k (Camping Frances) - 2-2.5 hrs
Feel free to take your time getting out of camp if you’re only planning on hiking from Paine Grande to either Italiano or Camping Frances; it’s a very short hike! The terrain on this part of the trail is also extremely forgiving. Enjoy the easy day! However, all of this changes if you plan to hike up Valle Frances to Mirador Britanica. I’ve heard great things about this trail and the viewpoint at the end, but we were not able to make that trip. Paine Grande to Camping Frances was our only day of bad weather. It was rainy and foggy all day for us and visibility was extremely poor. We decided to skip the trip up the valley and head straight for Camping Frances. If you are completely bent on hiking the Valle Frances trail, I would recommend booking Camping Italiano; it’s right at the base of the trailhead.
Italiano or Camping Frances to Los Cuernos: 5k - 2.5 hours
You’ll notice that the campsites are MUCH closer together on the “W” side of the trek than on the “O” side…this is due to the higher demand on this side of the circuit. The “W” is shorter, less technical and requires less planning than the “O.” But, by default, this means more crowded trails and campsites. While you will not need to make use of all the campsites on this side of the trail, it is important to be aware of them while you’re booking. This part of the trail is also fairly straightforward and easy to navigate. In addition to the amazing scenery, you are walking right along the base of the Cordillera Paine for this whole section of trail. On your left, gigantic rock faces climb virtually straight up to the sky, while on your right impossibly blue lakes sparkle in the Southern sun.
Los Cuernos to Camping Central/Las Torres Hotel: 11.6k - 4.5 hours
Its important to note that if you are heading from Los Cuernos to Chileno, the trail will break off and take you up the Base Las Torres trail about an hour and a half before you would have reached Camping Central. If you are on your way to Camping Central or Las Torres Hotel, don’t take this fork; carry on moving towards Las Torres Hotel (this part of the trail is extremely well marked, so you shouldn’t have any issues). Mostly, this is a simple hike back to where you started the trek. The terrain is rocky with plenty of ups and downs, and the winds on this side of Mt Almirante Nieto can get really hectic, but for the most part it’s a fairly easy day. I had a weird sense of deja vu when Las Torres Hotel and the gift shop/cafe came into view over the last rise. While I was excited to finally tick the “O” Trek off my bucket list, I was also sad that the hike had to end. When we were scoping out a site for our tent at Camping Central, I could see the trail head where we started the circuit, and all I wanted to do was start it again!
Base Las Torres Trail & Chileno: 9.4k (one-way) - 2.5 - 4 hours
The Base Las Torres trail takes you to the viewpoint for the park’s namesake: the Torres del Paine. If you have the right weather and the proper equipment, I would recommend hiking up this trail in time to catch the sunrise at the top. I won’t bore you with lacoliths and granite formations under metamorphic rock, but it is this phenomenon that causes only the granite spires of the Torres del Paine to reflect the bright orange light of the sunrise so beautifully. Obviously, this requires hiking up the trail at night (headlamp necessary!), so if you can book your accommodations at Chileno, do it. Chileno campsite is located halfway up the Base Las Torres trail, and will cut your night-hike time in half. However, Chileno is one of the first campsites to fill up, so don’t be surprised if you can’t book here. If that’s the case, you can still easily hike from Camping Central up to the Base de las Torres Lookout. You will just have to start a little earlier and be prepared for the initial incline - spoiler: it’s long and steep. The good news? You’ve already trekked over Paso John Gardner, so even though this will be challenging, it’s nowhere near as difficult as what you’ve already accomplished!
I like to break the Base Las Torres trail into 3 sections:
Initial climb: this section only applies if you’re hiking from Camping Central. After you backtrack from the campsite to the Base Las Torres trail head, you will start your first ascent up into the valley. This section will take you at least an hour. Its a constant, steep incline and it covers some distance. Pace yourself and remember to drink lots of water!
The flat part: Shortly before you hit Chileno Campground, the trail will flatten out for quite some time and you will have a fairly easy walk. If you’re hiking this part in the dark, you’ll miss all the beautiful scenery of the valley, but don’t worry! You’ll see it all on the way back down. After you pass through Chileno, you’ll start gradually gaining altitude again.
Out of the treeline: The last part of the trail starts at the very edge of the forest where you will start clamoring upward over large boulders and winding tree roots. After you are fully out of the treeline, the terrain turns reminiscent of Paso John Gardner; lots of loose rock, gigantic boulders and only orange marker sticks to guide your way. I can’t stress this enough: BE CAREFUL IF HIKING AT NIGHT!! This part of the trail is very steep and it’s a very long way down. After you reach the crest of the lake (and the towers!), expect the wind to pick up immensely, and the temperature to drop by about 10° F. Find a nice rock to hide behind to block the wind and enjoy the view!
If you decide to do this as a sunrise hike, be prepared to wait at the top for the sun to come up. We saw a few people who brought their sleeping bags or camping blankets with them, and I would definitely recommend doing this! We were wearing every layer we had, huddled together in the crevice of a huge boulder, and we were still freezing! The weather at the top is no joke, and it is compounded by the fact that if you’re waiting for the sunrise, you’re up there in the middle of the night. Pack warm and dress warm!
Coming back down the trail is significantly easier and absolutely stunning. The valley is beautiful and if you’ve just watched the sun come up, the early morning light will bring the landscape to life even more.
ADDITIONAL QUESTIONS & SPECIFICS
Now that you’ve read through the ins and outs of each leg of the trek, I hope you have a better understanding of exactly what completing this amazing circuit looks like. If you have any questions or want more specifics/photos of a certain portion of the trail, drop me a line in the Contact Us section. I am more than happy to help in whatever way I can!
Campsite Info
In this section, you will find information about what to expect at each campsite along the “O” Trek. This will be incredibly helpful for you when planning your itinerary, meals, and…you know…when to shower. Remember to check in and sign the log book at each campsite you arrive to prior to pitching your tent.
Camping Seron: Mini market(snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, cold water showers
Large flat field for pitching a tent. Very little shelter. Finding a way to keep out of the wind here is critical for a good night’s sleep.
Camping Dickson: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers - nice shower area!
Large flat field for pitching a tent, as well as multiple, well protected plots along the treeline. There are trails all around to explore the glacier, lake, and icebergs nearby. This was our favorite campsite.
Los Perros: running water, bathrooms, cold water showers
Forested campground with lots of flat tent plots
Camping Paso: running water
Small forested campground with very few viable tent plots and no bathroom. However, the good sites are REALLY good, so endeavor to get to this campground sooner rather than later. This was our second favorite campsite.
Camping Grey: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, wifi
Large campground and refugio. Access to Grey Glacier boat tours. There are options for forested tent sites or large flat open field sites.
Paine Grande: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers*, restaurant, full bar, wifi
The largest and busiest campsite on the whole trek. Also a backpacker’s refugio. Large field for pitching a tent. But get here early…otherwise you’ll be pitching your tent an arms-length from the next guy. Buffet style hot meal can be purchased for USD $35 at the refugio, as well as beer, wine and mixed drinks from the bar upstairs.
*hot showers: because this campsite is so busy, the showers are regulated. Each time you turn the shower on, it only stays on for 10 seconds. Blaine had no issues in the men’s showers, but I only got about 3 good bursts of hot water before it went completely cold.
Italiano: running water
Small forested campground with little to no amenities. Beautiful view of raging river nearby.
Camping Frances: Mini market (snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, limited bar, wifi - nice bathrooms & showers!
Widely spread out forested campsite on a hillside - tents are pitched on pre-assigned platforms. Refugio and Domos also on site. At the bottom of the hill overlooking the lake is where you will find the refugio with restaurant, cocktails, wifi and games. It’s a fair distance from the camping area to the refugio, and the bathrooms/showers are located about halfway between the two.
Los Cuernos: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, full bar, wifi
Campsites are spread out along the trail in flat, grassy and sometimes low forested areas.
Chileno: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, wifi
Forested campsite with 50 plots available for tents. Beautiful location and lots of ares for exploring. This site fills up quickly!
Camping Central (Torre Central): Mini market(snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers
Large, mostly open field campsite with trees interspersed throughout. Finding shelter from the wind here is key. Can pitch your tent on the ground or on one of the platforms.
The amenities at the campsite itself are not awesome, but you are only a 5 minute walk from the Las Torres Hotel which has a restaurant, full bar, wifi, and even a spa with a masseuse.
Insider Tips
We all have things that we wish we would have known before we set out on an adventure. Here are 10 things that we either wish we would have known, or were SUPER GLAD we did know about backpacking the “O” Trek:
Follow the orange markers
Most well maintained trails have trail markers that are intuitive and easy to follow. Torres del Paine National Park does a great job of keeping their trail markers maintained…and a not so great job on telling you which ones to follow. This is really only a problem at the beginning of the trek and in some other isolated areas, but if you follow the wrong markers, you could find yourself very lost. Orange markers are the ones you need to follow for the walking trail. You will also see yellow markers (horse trail), and red markers (guided tours only). Between Las Torres Hotel and Camping Seron, the three trails cross paths a lot, and if you’re not paying attention to which markers you’re following it’s going to cost you a lot of time spent doubling back.
Don’t take a big clunky camera - your cell phone will be enough
Every. Single. Photo. on this website was taken with a cell phone camera. We carried the Samsung Galaxy S9 and Samsung Galaxy Note 10+. Unless this is a photography specific trip that necessitates a special kind of camera, don’t waste the space and weight on it. We kept our phones charged by keeping them on airplane mode for the duration of the hike as well as with a portable solar powered charging bank.
You don’t have to start your days early…but you should
You will have PLENTY of daylight for hiking no matter what time you get up and start each day. However, some trails have closing times, and in order to continue you must reach a particular spot on the trail by a certain time.
Another reason to start early is so you get to the next camp early. Why? Getting a good spot for your tent that is sheltered from the wind is the #1 key to a good night’s sleep on the circuit. The wind howls on the trail, and if you pitch your tent in the wrong spot, it will make for a very noisy and stressful night…especially if you haven’t staked your tent down strongly enough. Beating the rush to the next campsite is critical if you want the prime spot.
Layers, layers and more layers!
The weather in Patagonia changes by the minute. This makes packing for your trip exceptionally difficult. The best way to ensure you have all the right gear and the protection you need is to layer up. Be prepared to take off and put on layer after layer multiple times/day, and keep this in mind when organizing your pack. Nothing is worse than a surprise thunderstorm when your rain gear is all the way at the bottom of your backpack! For a complete guide to the best clothing for the “O” Trek (men’s and women’s), check out my Essential “O” Trek Packing List!
High top hiking boots are the way to go (make sure they’re waterproof!)
Ok…if you’ve been paying attention to the photos, you know that I don’t wear high top hiking boots. I just don’t like them. I feel much more comfortable and stable in a pair of sturdy low top hiking shoes. HOWEVER, I do think that for this particular trek, high top hiking boots are the best option. We came across muddy pits, deep snow, sloppy marshes, and standing water on this trip, and it was slow going for me to navigate my way through in my low tops. Given the diversity of the terrain and the fact that you just can’t predict the weather, I will be buying a pair of high tops for my next trip to Torres del Paine
If you’re on the fence about trekking poles, TAKE THEM!
This was something that I was actually on the fence about packing. I don’t usually use trekking poles, and on other thru-hikes I’ve done they’ve never left my pack. To be honest, I only used them about 40% of the time on the “O” Trek, but when I needed them I was really, really, really, glad I had them. Whether it was the snow on both sides of the John Gardner Pass, or balancing on logs buried in sticky, squishy mud pits, my trekking poles more than carried their weight on this one. For a full list of gear we couldn’t live without, check out my Essential “O” Trek Gear List!
Don’t trust the distance markers or completion times on the trail
Periodically, you will see placards with terrain maps and/or distances to the next point of interest. We found these to be extremely inconsistent. Because we’re fairly seasoned hikers, we have a good sense of how long it takes us to hike 2k, 5k, or 10k in various terrains. Some of their distance and time estimations were spot on! Others…not so much. There’s one that’s especially bad on the way to Camping Paso. All of us that made camp that night were talking about it in the mess area. The sign read “1.8k to Campamento Paso” which should have taken us about 30 minutes in the given terrain. We reached camp an hour and a half later, and all the other backpackers had the same sentiments. This was definitely the worst discrepancy, but it was far from the only one. Trust your own pace and track your own distance if you can.
Carry your wallet and your passport with you
You should always keep your valuables like your wallet and your passport on your person when traveling in foreign countries, but it crossed my mind to leave that stuff with my laptop and extra luggage in Puerto Natales. I’m glad I didn’t. Not only do you need your passport for entry into the park, having a bit of cash on us paid off big time when we wanted to restock our snacks at the mini markets or pay for a hot meal at a refugio. Some of the campsites take credit cards, but it’s hit and miss, so do yourself a favor and just carry some cash.
Bring a small dish-washing kit
All of the campsites have running water for washing clothes and dishes, but not all of the campsites have soap or a sponge for cleaning out your cookware. And the ones that do…trust me: you don’t want to touch that sponge. I’m usually pretty good about the housekeeping part of the packing process, but I totally spaced on the sponge/scour pad on this trip. We got by fine with the soap and dish rag that I did manage to pack, but having that little extra dish washing gear would have made cleaning up dinner way easier. Pro tip: we don’t go anywhere without Dr. Bonner’s liquid soap. It can be used for just about anything (laundry soap, dish soap, body wash, etc), and it’s 100% organic, so it won’t harm the environment. The only thing I don’t recommend it for is shampoo…but that’s another story.
Sandals are your best friend
I usually don’t waste my pack space with sandals, but I’m glad I did for this trip. All of the campsites are pretty spread out, and lots of them are in nice, flat, grassy valleys where it’s perfectly comfortable to walk around in sandals. Given the fact that you are covering large distances over some tough terrain on this hike, nothing feels better than getting to camp and not having to put your boots back on until the morning. I honestly can’t tell you how happy I was to be able to walk around camp, explore short, nearby trails and hang out in the mess area in my sandals. Take this tip; your feet will thank you.
After The Trek
So you’ve completed the trek. You’re on the bus or the ferry back to Puerto Natales and probably about to pass out for the rest of the ride back to town. You’re clothes are dirty, your feet are sore, and you would LOVE to sleep in a real bed. Here are my expert tips for self care after you get off the trail:
On your first night back in town, skip the hostel and splurge on a cozy hotel (even if it’s only for one night). Hotels in Puerto Natales are more expensive than some of the other areas near by, but are still really cheap by US and European standards. Having a big cozy bed in a room all to yourself with hot water a-plenty will be worth more than gold to you on your first night off the trail. Budget this expense into your trip. You won’t regret it. Either of the hotels listed above would be great in this capacity.
After you drop your bags and get cleaned up, you’ll be hungry for lunch/dinner depending on what time you got back into town. Treat yourself to the best after-backpacking meal I’ve ever had at Baguales Brewery. Baguales has some of the most amazing burgers and mile high loaded french fries (Mega Papas) along with a great selection of local brews. Top it all off with the rustic atmosphere, the wood fire burning in the courtyard and the 30 other backpackers that are sure to be gathered around the bar telling stories from the trail, and Baguales makes the perfect end cap to an epic adventure.
