How to Book Your Campsites - Torres del Paine
Ah yes…the dreaded Torres del Paine campsite booking puzzle…
Ask anyone who has completed the “O” Circuit or “W” Trek, and they will all tell you the same thing: booking campsites is such a pain in the a$$! In this guide, I am going to walk you through the process step by step and do my best to answer any of your questions along the way. For those of you who have already read my Hiking the “O” Trek - Torres del Paine or Hiking the “W” Trek Torres del Paine posts, you will know some of this info already, but we are going to get WAY more specific in this post. Let’s get started with some very important information that you must know before you start your journey:
10 Things to Know Before You Go
When booking campsites in Torres del Paine, there are some very important things you must take into account that will effect which campsites you choose, and how you complete the trek. Here is a list of 10 things to take into account as you plan your hike:
All of your campsites must be booked, paid for, and confirmed before you enter the park. No exceptions. Print out your confirmations and be prepared to present them to park administration along with your passport before you are allowed to enter.
You MUST carry your campsite bookings with you for the duration of the trek. For your own safety, some trails close after certain times of day and the rangers along the way will want to see your campsite confirmations to prove that you have sufficient time to make it to your next campsite.
There are three different organizations that run the campsites: Vertice Patagonia, Fantastico Sur, and CONAF. You must book each campsite separately and through their respective organization.
You may only backpack the “O” Trek counterclockwise. This is different than the regulations on the “W” Trek, which you can complete in either direction.
The park entrance fee can only be paid in Chilean pesos, so make sure you bring enough cash with you to get in - 21,000 CLP (USD $32). You will also want extra cash for snacks and drinks along the way, as most campsites have a small mini-market.
Open fires are strictly forbidden. Cooking, camping stoves, smoking, and other activities that put the park at risk of forest fire are only allowed in designated areas that are signaled specifically for that purpose. There is a specified “kitchen” at each campsite for preparing meals.
Campsite bookings fill up quickly. If you want to ensure that you are able to complete your desired trek, book your campsites early.
Each organization opens their reservation system at different times, and not always when they advertise that they will. This is frustrating, but keep checking often so you don’t miss your opportunity to be one of the first bookings of the season and get your top picks.
The “O” Circuit is closed from April 1st - September 30th so if you are planning to hike Torres del Paine during this time of year, you are limited to the trails and campsites on the “W” Trek.
You have the option of renting your camping equipment from any campsite managed by Vertice Patagonia or Fantastico Sur if you want to cut down on pack weight or are concerned about your ability to carry everything with you. However, I always recommend packing and carrying your own gear if you can. Want to find out why? Check out The Core 3: Backpack, Tent & Sleeping Bag
Booking Campsites
So that doesn’t seem too complicated right? Wrong. Each organization doesn’t control a block of campsites all nicely placed in a row…they are spread out and intermingled in between each other. Furthermore, some are in higher demand than others, so if you thought you were going to book them all in exactly the order you wanted, have a backup plan. In order to get your first choice campsites, book as early as possible. Some campsites (especially the free CONAF sites) can book almost a full year in advance. Most of the backpackers we met on the trail (ourselves included) had to base their entire itinerary around which campsites were available on which days. Oh, and Vertice Patagonia’s online booking system almost NEVER works.
Here is a list of the campsites along with the organization that manages them, and their prices (USD) for a basic site, based on 2019 pricing. Campsites that are specific to the “O” Trek are in italics.
Camping Seron - Fantastico Sur - $21/person
Camping Dickson - Vertice Patagonia - $9/person
Los Perros - Vertice Patagonia - $9/person
Camping Paso - CONAF - FREE
Camping Grey - Vertice Patagonia - $11/person
Paine Grande - Vertice Patagonia - $11/person
Italiano - CONAF - FREE
Camping Frances - Fantastico Sur - $21/person
Los Cuernos - Fantastico Sur - $21/person
Chileno - Fantastico Sur - $21/person
Camping Central (Torre Central) - Fantasitico Sur - $21/person
Fantastico Sur and CONAF’s online booking systems are fairly straightforward and I didn’t have any issues completing my bookings and receiving my confirmation emails from these campsites. Here is a walk through on exactly how to use both of these systems:
Fantastico Sur:
Go to the Fantastico Sur website
Under the photo on the main page, click the box that reads “Book Per Night”
On the next page, you will see a list of campsites or “Sectors.” Click on the one you wish to book
Chose your requested dates from the drop down menu on the right-hand side. You will not be able to select dates that do not have availability
Most campsites have multiple options (i.e. you can book a bed in the refugio, camping equipment, or just a campsite). Scroll down if necessary until you see “Camping Sitio Suelo.”
Choose the quantity of single or double sites you need to book.
Once you have made your selections, scroll to the boom of the page and click “Book Here”
Follow the payment directions and contact info, and wait for your confirmation email!
CONAF:
Go to the CONAF Booking Site
Scroll all the way to the bottom. Click on the green button that says “hacer una reserva”
Click on the campsite you would like to book, and select your date. The system will tell you if your date/dates are unavailable.
Once you have selected available dates, follow the directions for payment and wait for your confirmation email!
[[ UPDATE: - March 17th, 2020: due to the current COVID-19 pandemic, CONAF has closed their booking system. Vertice Patagonia and Fantastico Sur are still up and running.]]
Vertice Patagonia however… !*&#%^$. Vertice’s online system requires you to enter dates for ALL of their campsites, regardless of whether or not your itinerary warrants you staying at them. Furthermore, if one of their campsites is unavailable on the day you need it, the website will not let you continue. I went around and around with this service until I finally gave up and emailed Vertice…to which I received no reply. A week later, I called their office and after multiple tries was able to get someone on the phone. Once I actually spoke with someone from the office, everything went much smoother. I explained my situation to her, she requested that I follow up with another email, and later that day my campsites were booked. I paid using a PayPal link in the confirmation email. My advice? Unless you are booking far in advance or intend to stay at all of their campsites, just skip the online platform and call the office. It will save you hours of pain and suffering.
Side note: if you are intending to skip Los Perros and go straight from Camping Dickson to Camping Paso, you must book Paso first and show that booking to Vertice as proof of accommodation. Without that proof, Vertice will require you to also book Los Perros. This has to do with the distance and altitude of the trail between Dickson and Paso, as well as the distance to the next available campsite.
Ok, so now that you know the ins and outs of HOW to book your campsites, the next question is WHICH campsites to book. Let’s start with this super helpful distance guide that can only be found on the maps that get handed out when you enter the park:
Apologies for the poor photo quality…this map took a beating!
As I mentioned previously, unless you book WELL in advance, the campsites you book will largely depend on what is available. Moral of the story? Be prepared to make changes to your itinerary. As an example, here is the itinerary we ended up with for the “O” Trek:
Day 1: Bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amagara. Bus from Laguna Amagara to Las Torres Hotel. First leg of the trek - Las Torres Hotel to Camping Seron
Day 2: Camping Seron to Camping Dickson
Day 3: Camping Dickson to Camping Paso
Day 4: Camping Paso to Paine Grande
Day 5: Paine Grande to Camping Frances
Day 6: Camping Frances to Camping Central
Day 7: Camping Central to Base Las Torres (day hike style - we left our tent and most of our gear at Camping Central), then back to Central to pack up our gear and pack out to Las Torres hotel where we caught the bus back to Puerto Natales.
We really loved this itinerary. It was a fairly fast pace, and if you only have a week to spend in the park, this is a great itinerary to follow.
If you’re worried about long distances, steep inclines, and trail closure times, but you still want to hike the “O” Trek, then I recommend an itinerary that looks more like this:
Day 1: Bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amagara. Bus from Laguna Amagara to Las Torres Hotel. First leg of the trek - Las Torres Hotel to Camping Seron
Day 2: Camping Seron to Camping Dickson
Day 3: Camping Dickson to Los Perros
Day 4: Los Perros to Camping Paso
Day 5: Camping Paso to Camping Grey
Day 6: Camping Grey to Paine Grande
Day 7: Paine Grande to Italiano or Camping Frances, day hike up Valle Frances to Mirador Britanica
Day 8: Italiano/Frances to Camping Central or Chileno
Day 9: Day hike to Base Las Torres, then down to Las Torres Hotel to catch the bus back to Puerto Natales
Here is a sample itinerary if you are planning on hiking the “W” Trek:
Day 1: Bust from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amagara. Buts from Laguna Amagara to Pudeto. Ferry to Paine Grande. First leg of the trek - Paine Grande to Camping Grey
Day 2: Explore Grey Glacier through boat tours from Camping Grey. Camping Grey to Paine Grande.
Day 3: Paine Grande to Italiano. Set up camp, then day hike up Valle Frances to Britanica Lookout and back to Italiano.
Day 4: Italiano to Los Cuernos
Day 5: Los Cuernos to Chileno
Day 6: Chileno to Base Las Torres Lookout (day hike style - leave your tent and other gear in camp), then down to Las Torres Hotel to catch the bus back to Puerto Natales.
Remember, you can hike the “W” Trek in either direction, so if you would prefer to start from Las Torres Hotel instead and end at Paine Grande, you can absolutely do that!
Campsite Info
In this section, you will find information about what to expect at each campsite along the “O” Trek. This will be incredibly helpful for you when planning your itinerary, meals, and…you know…when to shower. Remember to check in and sign the log book at each campsite you arrive at prior to pitching your tent.
Camping Seron: Mini market(snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, cold water showers
Large flat field for pitching a tent. Very little shelter. Finding a way to keep out of the wind here is critical for a good night’s sleep.
Camping Dickson: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers - nice shower area!
Large flat field for pitching a tent, as well as multiple, well protected plots along the treeline. There are trails all around to explore the glacier, lake, and icebergs nearby. This was our favorite campsite.
Los Perros: running water, bathrooms, cold water showers
Forested campground with lots of flat tent plots
Camping Paso: running water
Small forested campground with very few viable tent plots and no bathroom. However, the good sites are REALLY good, so endeavor to get to this campground sooner rather than later. This was our second favorite campsite.
Camping Grey: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, wifi
Large campground and refugio. Access to Grey Glacier boat tours. There are options for forested tent sites or large flat open field sites.
Paine Grande: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers*, restaurant, full bar, wifi
The largest and busiest campsite on the whole trek. Also a backpacker’s refugio. Large field for pitching a tent. But get here early…otherwise you’ll be pitching your tent an arms-length from the next guy. Buffet style hot meal can be purchased for USD $35 at the refugio, as well as beer, wine and mixed drinks from the bar upstairs.
*hot showers: because this campsite is so busy, the showers are regulated. Each time you turn the shower on, it only stays on for 10 seconds. Blaine had no issues in the men’s showers, but I only got about 3 good bursts of hot water before it went completely cold.
Italiano: running water
Small forested campground with little to no amenities. Beautiful view of raging river nearby.
Camping Frances: Mini market (snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, limited bar, wifi - nice bathrooms & showers!
Widely spread out forested campsite on a hillside - tents are pitched on pre-assigned platforms. Refugio and Domos also on site. At the bottom of the hill overlooking the lake is where you will find the refugio with restaurant, cocktails, wifi and games. It’s a fair distance from the camping area to the refugio, and the bathrooms/showers are located about halfway between the two.
Los Cuernos: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, full bar, wifi
Campsites are spread out along the trail in flat, grassy and sometimes low forested areas.
Chileno: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, wifi
Forested campsite with 50 plots available for tents. Beautiful location and lots of ares for exploring. This site fills up quickly!
Camping Central (Torre Central): Mini market(snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers
Large, mostly open field campsite with trees interspersed throughout. Finding shelter from the wind here is key. Can pitch your tent on the ground or on one of the platforms.
The amenities at the campsite itself are not awesome, but you are only a 5 minute walk from the Las Torres Hotel which has a restaurant, full bar, wifi, and even a spa with a masseuse.
Frequently Asked Questions - Campsites
Which trek should I choose?
Regardless of whether you decide to hike the “O” Trek or the “W” Trek, you are in for one amazing trekking experience. The scenery is unbeatable on both sides of the trail, and the camping experiences are awesome. A lot of the decision is going to come down to the amount of time you have to spend in the park, your experience level and your personal abilities. Check out my Choosing Your Torres del Paine Adventure guide for more information on deciding which trail to take.
What do I do if I can’t book enough campsites for the trek?
Sometimes booking campsites well in advance isn’t always feasible, and now you’re left with whatever you can get…if anything is still available. If there are not enough campsites to facilitate your trek on the days you need them, here are some alternative options:
Adjust your itinerary: Consider breaking your trek up into different segments. For example, if Italiano is fully booked, try booking Camping Frances instead and vice versa. Alternatively, you can stay at one campsite for two nights instead to shift your arrival date back at your next site. If you’re up for it, you can also hike longer segments by skipping some campsites. A word of caution with this strategy - take trail closure times into account and don’t attempt a more strenuous hike than you’re capable of.
Book Refugio beds instead of campsites: most backpackers are adamant about camping during their trek, and who can blame them?! We don’t travel all that way to sleep in a hostel style dorm! However, if all the sites at a particular campsite are already booked, consider booking a refugio bed at the same campsite instead so you can keep your itinerary on track.
Consider shortening your trip: if you were planning on a full “O” trek, but are struggling booking campsites on the much busier “W” side of the trail, consider trekking from Las Torres Hotel to Paine Grande, and heading back to Puerto Natales from there. While this is far from ideal because you miss out on some of the major attractions and won’t get to complete the full circuit, it’s a way of getting to see the back side of the trail in a shorter amount of time. Depending on availability, you may even be able to stay in Puerto Natales for a couple days, then head back up to Torres del Paine to complete the rest of the trek a few days later. Similarly, if you are hiking the “W” Trek, consider taking it in chunks with a few days in Puerto Natales in between. Remember, El Calfate is a short bus ride away! You could use your down time to see lots of the other amazing attractions Patagonia has to offer!
Consider changing your travel dates: if you have already booked your plane tickets, this is probably not an option. However, if you haven’t booked your flights yet, consider booking them around when you will be able to complete the trek in the way you had envisioned.
Los Perros Campsite is fully booked on the day I would need it. Is it possible to hike from Camping Dickson to Camping Paso in one day?
Yes, this is completely doable. However, it will definitely be challenging, especially if the weather isn’t playing nicely. Hiking Camping Dickson to Camping Paso will take you about 10 hours total to complete over a distance of 19.8k. It will be a strenuous 10 hours. Take your time, drink lots of water, and don’t over exert yourself. Be prepared for LOTS of wind at the top of the pass and a much cooler climate. Make sure you leave Camping Dickson early in the morning, as you MUST make it to Los Perros campground by 2pm, otherwise you will be prohibited from continuing on. IMPORTANT: weather plays a big role in trail closure times. On the day we did this section of trail, we arrived at Los Perros around 11:15am, and were informed that we had to be on our way to Camping Paso no later than noon due to the possibility of snow in the pass. Moral of the story? Trail closure times can change due to weather, so it’s best to start as early as you can.
Camping Paso is fully booked on the day I would need it. Is it possible to hike from Los Perros to Camping Grey in one day?
Yes, this is also completely doable. But agian, it will be a tough day. If I had to pick between hiking Dickson to Paso or Los Perros to Grey, I think I would rather hike Dickson to Paso. Now, that’s not to say that Los Perros to Camping Grey is an awful hike, it will just feel looooooonnnnnggg. The actual distance is 15k (about 5k shorter than Dickson to Paso), but it will likely take you the same amount of time. Leave early in the morning, and be prepared for a long and steep hike immediately out of Los Perros. Then, get ready for an equally grueling downhill trek to Camping Paso. Stop here for lunch if you can, and to catch your breath. The good news? The rest of the hike to Camping Grey is pretty easy, and you’ll be crossing those famous suspension bridges along the way.
Vertice Patagonia’s booking system is not working and I don’t need to book all of their campsites. What should I do?
Vertice’s booking system can be a struggle. For starters, if you’re using Google Chrome, don’t. Open the page in Internet Explorer, and you will already have won half the battle. If you are still having issues or don’t need to book all four campsites, email Vertice Patagonia at ventas@verticepatagonia.cl. Keep an eye out for a response, and if goes more than 1 week, call their office to speed things along: +56 61 241 2742 Once you actually speak to someone, the process goes much smoother. And the Vertice employees are extremely nice!
Chileno is fully booked and I really want to hike up to Mirador Base Las Torres for the sunrise. Is it possible to do this from Camping Central (Torre Central)?
Yes! Absolutely. You will obviously need to leave a bit earlier, and more of your hike will be done in the dark (headlamp necessary!), but it’s perfectly feasible. Pro tip: don’t leave too early…we were told that it would take us 4 hours to hike from Camping Central to Mirador Base Las Torres. Maybe it would have if we were carrying all of our gear. However, due to the fact that we left our tent set up in camp and only took a day pack with us, it actually only took us about 2 hours and 45 minutes…which meant we were stuck at the top FREEZING our a$$es off waiting AN HOUR for sunrise. I would advise you to leave later rather than earlier. Even if you aren’t there to see the first glimmer of orange light hit the peaks of the towers, it will still be a spectacular show. We were there about a month before the summer solstice, and left Camping Central at 1:30am. We could have easily left at 2:30am and made it to the lookout with time to spare. We were literally the first ones at the top…
Here’s what Mirador Base Las Torres looks like at 4:30am…yep, it was cold.
