Hiking the "W" Trek - Torres del Paine
Prepare for one of the most incredible outdoor experiences Patagonia has to offer.
For those of you who are familiar with this site, you will know that I wrote an expert level, in depth guide for backpacking the “O” Trek (the full circuit around the Cordillera Paine). Because the two treks overlap along the front side of the trail, you will also see lots of overlap in the information I provide here. This guide is specific to the “W” Trek, which encompasses everything from Camping Grey to the Base Las Torres Lookout. On a map, the trek looks like a W, hence the name.
Pre-Planning
Congratulations on deciding to visit Torres del Paine National Park! This will be a very rewarding and enjoyable experience even if you are a seasoned thru-hiker. However, you know what’s not enjoyable? The planning. Organizing flights, booking transportation to the park, finding provisions, and (the worst of them all) booking the campsites. Yep…booking your campsites and planning out the logistics of your trek will most likely be more difficult than the actual hike itself. Ready to get started? Good! Let’s go!
FINDING THE RIGHT FLIGHTS & WHEN TO TRAVEL
Right. So the first thing you will need to do is actually GET to Torres del Paine. So when is the best time to go? Peak season in Torres del Paine National Park is December through March, and many blogs and travel guides will tell you that the best time to visit is January or February. I disagree. In my opinion, the best time to travel to this region (specifically Torres del Paine) is in mid to late November. While you run the risk of leftover snow at high altitudes and chillier temperatures, the chances of precipitation and the ultra strong Patagonia winds the region is known for are less likely to be a factor in November. The weather in Patagonia can change in seconds, so nothing is ever guaranteed. But, when we compared the weather we had vs what some of our friends experienced during Jan and Feb, the November weather was MUCH better. There are a few other outdoor travel bloggers out there that have come to this same conclusion, so do your self a favor and consider taking your trip towards the end of November.
There are a few other benefits of going early on in the season as well:
A higher likelihood of getting your first-choice campsites and therefore your best itinerary (more on that later)
Fewer crowds
Spring wildflowers will be in bloom and baby animals will be all over the place
Once you have decided on your dates, you will book your flights into Puerto Natales, Chile - also known as the backpacker’s base camp for Torres del Paine. When flying from the United States, we found that the best thing for us to do was take a direct flight to Lima, Peru, collect our bags, and continue on with South American based airlines from there (the two big ones you will use are Sky and Latam). Sky Airline is based out of Santiago, Chile and most of their flights run trough that hub. The best thing about Sky? It’s SO CHEAP! Like seriously guys, so so cheap. You will find one way domestic flights for well under $50. We traveled all over Chile on Sky and I distinctly remember paying USD $12/person for a one way base domestic fare. No jokes. The other good thing is that their baggage fees are extremely reasonable. Usually, carry on bags are included in the base fare, and adding additional checked bags is really inexpensive through their fare upgrade program. For the absolute best prices, be prepared to only bring carry on luggage or pick up your checked bags at each leg of your trip (I know it sucks, but you can seriously save hundreds of dollars doing it this way).
**Side Note: we had additional bags because we were spending a couple months traveling all over South america and needed LOTS of different gear. Chances are if you’re only going down to backpack the “O” Trek, you will be able to get away with simply carrying on your backpack and not have to worry about the checked bags dilemma.
[[IMPORTANT: Remember that little piece of paper you received at the airport when you first flew into Chile or Argentina? YOU NEED TO KEEP THAT! That is your visa (proof of legality in the country), and you will need it to enter and exit the country it was issued in. DO NOT LOSE THIS!]]
The airport in Puerto Natales is a little ways out of town, so you will need to take a taxi or a shuttle bus from the airport to your accommodations. For my Uber users out there: Uber will show drivers available in the area, but you’re better off just taking a taxi. Uber is few and far between in Puerto Natales which translates to long wait times. Furthermore, they are actually more expensive than the taxi drivers, and the taxi drivers know the area like the back of their hand. Most of the drivers that work the airport also speak a little English and will want to get to know you and show you their amazing home. LET THEM! Our driver practically gave us a complete Puerto Natales history lesson in the 13 min we spent in his cab. It was very cool. While I always recommend having local currency on you before you arrive in a foreign country, don’t sweat it if you don’t have any Chilean Pesos when you arrive at the airport; most of the taxi drivers will accept USD.
BOOKING YOUR CAMPSITES
Ah yes…the dreaded Torres del Paine campsite booking puzzle. Ask anyone who has completed this trek and they will all tell you the same thing: booking campsites is such a pain in the a$$! Ok, so here are the basic things you need to understand before you start booking your campsites:
All of your campsites must be booked, paid for, and confirmed before you enter the park. No exceptions. Print out your confirmations and be prepared to present them to park administration along with your passport before you are allowed to enter.
You MUST carry your campsite bookings with you for the duration of the trek. For your own safety, some trails close after certain times of day and the rangers along the way will want to see your campsite confirmations to prove that you have sufficient time to make it to your next campsite.
There are three different organizations that run the campsites: Vertice Patagonia, Fantastico Sur, and CONAF. You must book each campsite separately and through their respective organization - more on that later.
Paine Grande Campsite & Refugio
So that doesn’t seem too complicated right? Wrong. Each organization doesn’t control a block of campsites all nicely placed in a row…they are spread out and intermingled in between each other. Furthermore, some are in higher demand than others, so if you thought you were going to book them all nicely in a row, have a backup plan. In order to get your first choice campsites, book as early as possible. Some campsites (especially the free CONAF sites) can book almost a full year in advance. Most of the backpackers we met on the trail (ourselves included) had to base their entire itinerary around which campsites were available on which days. Oh, and Vertice Patagonia’s online booking system almost NEVER works.
Here is a list of the campsites along with the organization that manages them, and their prices (USD) for a basic site with two people.
Camping Grey - Vertice Patagonia - $22
Paine Grande - Vertice Patagonia - $22
Italiano - CONAF - FREE
Camping Frances - Fantastico Sur - $42
Los Cuernos - Fantastico Sur - $42
Chileno - Fantastico Sur - $42
Camping Central (Torre Central) - Fantasitico Sur - $42
Fantastico Sur and CONAF’s online booking systems are fairly straightforward and I didn’t have any issues completing my bookings and receiving my confirmation emails from these campsites. Vertice Patagonia however… !*&#%^$. Vertice’s online system requires you to enter dates for ALL of their campsites, regardless of whether or not your itinerary warrants you staying at them. Furthermore, if one of their campsites is unavailable on the day you need it, the website will not let you continue. I went around and around with this service until I finally gave up and emailed Vertice…to which I received no reply. A week later, I called their office and after multiple tries was able to get someone on the phone. Once I actually spoke with someone from the office, everything went much smoother. I explained my situation to her, she requested that I follow up with another email, and later that day my campsites were booked. I paid using a PayPal link in the confirmation email. My advice? Unless you are booking far in advance or intend to stay at all of their campsites, just skip the online platform and call the office. It will save you hours of pain and suffering.
For a complete, step by step guide on booking campsites in Torres del Paine, check out How to Book Your Campsites - Torres del Paine.
Ok, so now that you know the ins and outs of HOW to book your campsites, the next question is WHICH campsites to book. Let’s start with this super helpful distance guide that can only be found on the maps that get handed out when you enter the park:
As I mentioned previously, unless you book WELL in advance, the campsites you book will largely depend on what is available. Moral of the story? Be prepared to make changes to your itinerary. Here is the itinerary I would strive for when booking campsites for the “W” Trek:
Day 1: Bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amagara. Buts from Laguna Amagara to Pudeto. Ferry to Paine Grande. First leg of the trek - Paine Grande to Camping Grey
Day 2: Explore Grey Glacier through boat tours from Camping Grey. Camping Grey to Paine Grande.
Day 3: Paine Grande to Italiano. Set up camp, then day hike up Valle Frances to Britanico Lookout and back to Italiano.
Day 4: Italiano to Los Cuernos
Day 5: Los Cuernos to Chileno
Day 6: Chileno to Base Las Torres Lookout (day hike style - leave your tent and other gear in camp), then down to Las Torres Hotel to catch the bus back to Puerto Natales.
Italiano Campsite is one of the first to book up since it’s a free CONAF site. Don’t sweat it if you can’t get that one. Camping Frances is a great campsite that is only about 30 minutes further down the trail, and offers way more amenities than Italiano. The only downside to booking Camping Frances instead of Italiano is that you will have to backtrack that 30 minutes if you want to hike up Valle Frances to Britanico Lookout. Not a deal breaker, just slightly annoying.
Chileno can also book up REALLY quickly. If you can’t get a reservation at Chileno, Camping Central (Torre Central) is a good alternative.
Before You Go
So now that you’ve got your campsites booked and you’ve just touched down in Puerto Natales…now what?
Chow time at The Singing Lamb - Cerveza Austral’s Torres del Paine is the BEST BEER EVER MADE!
Choosing a Hostel or Hotel
Presumably, you’ve booked lodging for a night or two in town before you start the trek. I recommend spending at least two nights in Puerto Natales before departing for Torres del Paine. Why? Jet lag. Even if you’re staying in the same longitudinal time zone, you’re heading into the very high latitudes (51° South actually…) most likely in summer which means that you’re in for some looooonnnngggg days. Last light at those latitudes in the summer doesn’t come until almost midnight, and sunrise starts at about 4am. It’s going to take your body a couple days to adjust its circadian rhythm to that weirdness. Here are a couple recommendations on where to stay before your trip:
Hostels:
Hotels:
The four accommodations listed above all have excellent locations in close proximity to supermarkets, camping stores, and local foodie hot spots (The Singing Lamb and Vinnhaus both have in-house restaurants serving up some amazing local dishes!). Eratic Rock also has Torres del Paine briefings at least once/week which offer great local info an knowledge in case you want one last run-down before you hit the trail. Lastly, all of these locations offer luggage storage while you are on the trek in case there is something you don’t want to take on the trail with you.
PROVISIONS
This section is going to cover what you can find in Puerto Natales (and more importantly what you CAN’T), which supermarkets are best, and what will be available to you along the trail. For a full checklist of exactly what items I recommend packing for trekking Torres del Paine, check out my Essential “O” Trek Provisioning List.
Packing and repacking…and packing and repacking…
The two main supermarkets in Puerto Natales are Unimarc and Express Market. Unimarc is a commonly found Chilean franchise and is a quick walk from any of the lodging accommodations I listed above. Express Market is a little farther (about a 20-25 minute walk from the main part of town), but is definitely worth going to. EVERYONE who is in town planning to head out to Torres del Paine provisions at the Unimarc, which can sometimes mean bare shelves. However, they have an excellent selection and an amazing dried fruit and nut kiosk right inside the door. Express Market is a bit smaller and doesn’t have the same level of selection, but because it’s farther out of town, you are likely to find things in stock here that have been totally picked over at the Unimarc.
On the list of things you will not find ANYWHERE is pouches of tuna or chicken (a US backpacker’s staple!). Nope. None of that here. If you want tuna, be prepared to carry all that extra weight and trash in cans. Needless to say, we passed on the canned tuna. Instead we went for cured meats like prosciutto and sliced salami; high caloric density for a relatively light weight and LOTS of yummy options.
Another thing that we couldn’t find: granola bars or protein bars. It’s very difficult and slightly dodgy to bring food into Chile (if they catch you they will make you throw it all away), but I might try to pack a box of protein bars on our next trip down. I was missing those at breakfast time on the trail.
Lastly…and this is the big one…it is extremely difficult to find PEANUT BUTTER in Puerto Natales! I think this is largely due to the fact that during the high season there are tons of backpackers provisioning up for their treks. All the stores we went to had spaces on the shelf for it, but were completely sold out. We ended up packing Nutella instead, but the nutrient/oz ratio is nowhere near as good as peanut butter. Here are three peanut butter tips we found out after our trip that we wish we would have known before we left:
Ask around at the hostels and hotels. Lots of people that just came off the trail will have half-used jars of peanut butter that they no longer have a use for. See if there’s a good Samaritan out there that will let you pinch their leftovers.
Check the smaller convenience store type markets. There are tons of “tuc-shop” or kiosk like markets in Puerto Natales. We ran into one resilient Kiwi backpacker who went to 6 of these small shops until he found one that had some peanut butter on the shelf. That’s dedication!
If you can’t find any in Puerto Natales, don’t sweat it. About half of the campsites along the trail have small re-provision markets, and every one we came across was fully stocked with peanut butter. Now, you’re going to pay about 3x as much as you would have in Puerto Natales…but hey, that’s how supply and demand works I guess.
Don’t concern yourself with drinking water. Ice cold, crystal clear streams and rivers can be found all over the park. Not only is this water perfectly safe to drink, it’s absolutely delicious! We packed Life Straws just in case, but never even took them out.
One final note on provisions: open fires are NOT ALLOWED in Torres del Paine National Park, so make sure to pick up some fuel for your camping stove before you head out. Cooking with camping stoves is only allowed in small, designated areas. Bear this in mind when planning your meals and deciding on provisions. Most of the time the kitchen tents are overcrowded, and making an elaborate camping meal is not only a waste of time, but inconsiderate to others who need use the space as well. Keep your meals simple and your space tidy.
Getting Around
Aside from provisioning, the other important thing you’ll need to do once you arrive in Puerto Natales is book your bus ticket (or ferry ticket) to Torres del Paine. This can be done online in advance, but we found it to be much easier to simply walk into the bus line office and take care of it in person. Same goes for the ferries.
Here we are at the bus station in Puerto Natales on the morning we departed for Torres del Paine!
There are multiple bus lines to pick from, and honestly, any of them are perfectly fine. We went with Buses Fernandez and it was your typical, average charter bus experience. We bought one-way tickets as we were unsure exactly what time we wanted to come back to Puerto Natales on our last day. However there is an option to buy round-trip tickets at a slightly discounted rate. If you do one-way tickets like we did, you can easily purchase your return ticket at Las Torres Hotel on the day you pack out. Similarly, if you are leaving from Paine Grande on the Ferry, you can purchase those tickets at Park Administration.
The bus station you depart from is an easy morning walk from any of the lodging accommodations listed above - about 20-25 minutes. The ride from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park entrance is about two and a half hours…most of which I slept through (hey! It was early!). The fist stop is at Laguna Amarga reception station. This is where you will purchase your park entry tickets (USD $32/person, but can only be paid in Chilean Pesos! No foreign currency and no cards), disclose your intended amount of time in the park, prove you booked your campsites (make sure you also bring your passport!), and watch a short safety video.
Ok, so just to recap, here are the 3 things you MUST have to gain entry into the park:
Your campsite reservations
Your passport
Enough Chilean pesos to pay the park entrance fee
After this (assuming you are using the itinerary mentioned above), you will re-board the same bus and continue on to Pudeto Catamaran stop. From here, you will take the catamaran from Pudeto to Paine Grande where you will start your trek.
The Trek
There’s something really special about taking your first steps onto the trail. All your hard work and painstaking planning has finally paid off! I don’t know how it will effect you, but I was like a 6 year old at Disney World when I walked into the park proper. Seriously, I think I actually giggled.
Unlike the “O,” you can hike the “W” Trek in either direction - East to West or West to East. For the sake of this article, I am going to assume that you are taking the ferry to Paine Grande and completing the trek from West to East. My only reason for recommending you hike this direction is because the time it takes you to get back to Puerto Natales at the end of your journey will be much shorter and non-stop. However, if you would rather complete the trek from East to West, go for it! The starting and end points of the “W” trek are both so spectacular, that you really can’t go wrong.
Here we go!
Paine Grande to Camping Grey: 11k - 3.5 hours (although it took us a little longer)
So the first thing I’ll warn you about is the distance markers on the trail; don’t trust them. Some are totally spot on, and others…not so much. This 11k section of trail is listed as taking approximately 3.5 hours, but in reality it took us almost 5 hours. I don’t know if this was because we stopped for lots of photos (this section of trail is gorgeous!) or if we were just taking our time on this day. We beat the listed times on almost all the other sections of the trail, but this one took us longer. Expect lots of ups and downs over large boulders and varying terrains. This sections is a good introduction to what you can expect later on in your trek, while not challenging you TOO much on your first day. Enjoy the change in scenery from what could be the American Southwest to something that more resembles a prehistoric ice age.
Camping Grey to Paine Grande: 11k - 3.5 hours (although this took us a little longer)
Since you’ve already seen this part of the trail, spend a little more time at Camping Grey on this day. There are all sorts of awesome boat tours you can take to get an up close and personal look at the three faces of Grey Glacier, which at it’s tallest point stands 50m above the waterline! Some friends of ours did a kayaking excursion out to the Grey icebergs and had an amazing time! After you’re done exploring the glacier, head back down to Paine Grande.
Paine Grande to Italiano: 7.5k - 2-2.5 hours
Paine Grande to Italiano is a quick hike over pretty mellow terrain. Once you get to Italiano, set up camp, drop your excess gear, and take your day pack up Valle Frances to Britanica Lookout. Unfortunately, we were not able to complete this part of the trek due to inclement weather, but I’ve heard nothing but awesome things about it! It’s definitely worth the hike, especially on a day like this one where you have a short distance between camps.
Italiano to Los Cuernos: 5k - 2.5 hours
The trail gets a little tougher in the section but still nothing to be overly concerned about. And, it’s another short day. Los Cuernos campground is similar to Paine Grande in the sense that it has hot food, a full bar, hot water, and wifi, which will be a welcome change for Italiano which has…well…nothing. Use your excess time on this day to get re-organized, cleaned up and explore your surroundings including beautiful Nordernskjold Lake. Also make sure to get some rest; the next section of trail will be your longest and most strenuous day.
Los Cuernos to Chileno: 12k - 6.5 hours
Here’s where we step up the difficulty folks! But don’t worry; I promise it’s worth it! The trail on the East side of Los Cuernos campsite gets a bit steeper and more unpredictable - expect lots of ups and downs, including a steep rise right out of camp. After a couple hours, the trail will level off, and you’ll have a much more pleasant walk ahead of you until you reach the fork in the trail that takes you to Chileno. The fork is pretty well marked, but in case you need extra guidance, you want to follow the signs for Chileno, and NOT for Camping Central or Las Torres Hotel. How will you know you took the right path? After you’ve taken the correct fork, the trail will climb steeply upward. To put the attitudinal difficulty into perspective, by the time you reach the fork you will have traveled almost 10k in about 4.5 hours. The last 2k up to Chileno will likely take you another 1.5-2 hours because of the steepness of the trail. Don’t stress! Just take your time, don’t over exert yourself and remember to drink lots of water. Chileno is a beautiful campsite perched on the edge of a valley ravine with some of the best scenery the park has to offer.
Chileno to Base Las Torres: 4.4k - 2.5 hours
The initial part of this hike is pretty easy; a slow, upward climbing easy grade. However, once you reach the higher altitudes and start getting to the edge of the treeline, it’s all steep climbing from there. For about the last hour of this section, you will be clamoring over loose rock and large boulders playing connect-the-dots with orange marker sticks so you stay on the right path. But the view of the towers is so so worth it! Keep an eye on the weather and go earlier in the day if possible, as clouds/fog tend to roll in over the Torres del Paine basin during midday/afternoon. If you’re after an even more spectacular view, try to get to the lookout by sunrise and watch the first light of day reflect bright orange off of the towers. **Disclaimer: only, and I mean ONLY attempt hiking at night if you have the proper equipment (headlamp necessary!) and skills.
If you decide to do this as a sunrise hike, be prepared to wait at the top for the sun to come up. We saw a few people who brought their sleeping bags or camping blankets with them, and I would definitely recommend doing this! We were wearing every layer we had, huddled together in the crevice of a huge boulder, and we were still freezing! The weather at the top is no joke, and it is compounded by the fact that if you’re waiting for the sunrise, you’re up there in the middle of the night. Pack warm and dress warm!
Coming back down the trail is significantly easier and absolutely stunning. The valley is beautiful and if you’ve just watched the sun come up, the early morning light will bring the landscape to life even more.
Base Las Torres to Las Torres Hotel: 9k - 2-3 hours
The hike back down from Base Las Torres is MUCH easier than the hike up. You’ll stop back at your campsite at Chileno, pack your gear for the last time, and hike down and out of the valley to the Las Torres Hotel gift shop/cafe where you can purchase your bus ticket back to Puerto Natales. Just make sure you take the correct trail when you come to the main junction. You will want to follow signs for Camping Central and Las Torres Hotel, NOT Los Cuernos.
Campsite Info
In this section, you will find information about what to expect at each campsite along the “W” Trek. This will be incredibly helpful for you when planning your itinerary, meals, and…you know…when to shower. Remember to check in and sign the log book at each campsite you arrive to prior to pitching your tent.
Camping Grey: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, wifi
Large campground and refugio. Access to Grey Glacier boat tours. There are options for forested tent sites or large flat open field sites.
Paine Grande: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers*, restaurant, full bar, wifi
The largest and busiest campsite on the whole trek. Also a backpacker’s refugio. Large field for pitching a tent. But get here early…otherwise you’ll be pitching your tent an arms-length from the next guy. Buffet style hot meal can be purchased for USD $35 at the refugio, as well as beer, wine and mixed drinks from the bar upstairs.
*hot showers: because this campsite is so busy, the showers are regulated. Each time you turn the shower on, it only stays on for 10 seconds. Blaine had no issues in the men’s showers, but I only got about 3 good bursts of hot water before it went completely cold.
Italiano: running water
Small forested campground with little to no amenities. Beautiful view of raging river nearby.
Camping Frances: Mini market (snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, limited bar, wifi - nice bathrooms & showers!
Widely spread out forested campsite on a hillside - tents are pitched on pre-assigned platforms. Refugio and Domos also on site. At the bottom of the hill overlooking the lake is where you will find the refugio with restaurant, cocktails, wifi and games. It’s a fair distance from the camping area to the refugio, and the bathrooms/showers are located about halfway between the two.
Los Cuernos: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, full bar, wifi
Campsites are spread out along the trail in flat, grassy and sometimes low forested areas.
Chileno: Groceries (canned foods, meats, peanut butter, snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers, restaurant, wifi
Forested campsite with 50 plots available for tents. Beautiful location and lots of ares for exploring. This site fills up quickly!
Camping Central (Torre Central): Mini market(snacks, drinks, beer/wine), running water, bathrooms, hot water showers
Large, mostly open field campsite with trees interspersed throughout. Finding shelter from the wind here is key. Can pitch your tent on the ground or on one of the platforms.
The amenities at the campsite itself are not awesome, but you are only a 5 minute walk from the Las Torres Hotel which has a restaurant, full bar, wifi, and even a spa with a masseuse.
Insider Tips
We all have things that we wish we would have known before embarking on an epic outdoor adventure. Here is a list of 9 things we wish we would have known or were SUPER GLAD we did know before we backpacked through Torres del Paine:
Don’t take a big clunky camera - your cell phone will be enough
Every. Single. Photo. on this website was taken with a cell phone camera. We carried the Samsung Galaxy S9 and Samsung Galaxy Note 10+. Unless this is a photography specific trip that necessitates a special kind of camera, don’t waste the space and weight on it. We kept our phones charged by keeping them on airplane mode for the duration of the hike as well as with a portable solar powered charging bank.
You don’t have to start your days early…but you should
You will have PLENTY of daylight for hiking no matter what time you get up and start each day. However, some trails have closing times, and in order to continue you must reach a particular spot on the trail by a certain time.
Another reason to start early is so you get to the next camp early. Why? Getting a good spot for your tent that is sheltered from the wind is the #1 key to a good night’s sleep on the trek. The wind howls on the trail, and if you pitch your tent in the wrong spot, it will make for a very noisy and stressful night…especially if you haven’t staked your tent down strongly enough. Beating the rush to the next campsite is critical if you want the prime spot.
Layers, layers and more layers!
The weather in Patagonia changes by the minute. This makes packing for your trip exceptionally difficult. The best way to ensure you have all the right gear and the protection you need is to layer up. Be prepared to take off and put on layer after layer multiple times/day, and keep this in mind when organizing your pack. Nothing is worse than a surprise thunderstorm when your rain gear is all the way at the bottom of your backpack! For a complete guide to the best clothing for the “O” Trek (men’s and women’s), check out my Essential “O” Trek Packing List!
High top hiking boots are the way to go (make sure they’re waterproof!)
Ok…if you’ve been paying attention to the photos, you know that I don’t wear high top hiking boots. I just don’t like them. I feel much more comfortable and stable in a pair of sturdy low top hiking shoes. HOWEVER, I do think that for this particular trek, high top hiking boots are the best option. We came across muddy pits, deep snow, sloppy marshes, and standing water on this trip, and it was slow going for me to navigate my way through in my low tops. Given the diversity of the terrain and the fact that you just can’t predict the weather, I will be buying a pair of high tops for my next trip to Torres del Paine
If you’re on the fence about trekking poles, TAKE THEM!
This was something that I was actually on the fence about packing. I don’t usually use trekking poles, and on other thru-hikes I’ve done they’ve never left my pack. To be honest, I only used them about 40% of the time, but when I needed them I was really, really, really, glad I had them. Whether it was the steep decent from Base Las Torres Lookout, or balancing on logs buried in sticky, squishy mud pits, my trekking poles more than carried their weight on this one. For a full list of gear we couldn’t live without, check out my Essential “O” Trek Gear List! Also a totally suitable list to apply to the “W” Trek.
Don’t trust the distance markers or completion times on the trail
Periodically, you will see placards with terrain maps and/or distances to the next point of interest. We found these to be extremely inconsistent. Because we’re fairly seasoned hikers, we have a good sense of how long it takes us to hike 2k, 5k, or 10k in various terrains. Some of their distance and time estimations were spot on! Others…not so much. Trust your own pace and track your own distance if you can.
Carry your wallet and your passport with you
You should always keep your valuables like your wallet and your passport on your person when traveling in foreign countries, but it crossed my mind to leave that stuff with my laptop and extra luggage in Puerto Natales. I’m glad I didn’t. Not only do you need your passport and Chilean pesos for entry into the park, having a bit of cash on us paid off big time when we wanted to restock our snacks at the mini markets or pay for a hot meal at a refugio. Some of the campsites take credit cards, but it’s hit and miss, so do yourself a favor and just carry some cash.
Bring a small dish-washing kit
All of the campsites have running water for washing clothes and dishes, but not all of them have soap or a sponge for cleaning out your cookware. And the ones that do…trust me: you don’t want to touch that sponge. I’m usually pretty good about the housekeeping part of the packing process, but I totally spaced on the sponge/scour pad on this trip. We got by fine with the soap and dish rag that I did manage to pack, but having that little extra dish washing gear would have made cleaning up dinner way easier. Pro tip: we don’t go anywhere without Dr. Bonner’s liquid soap. It can be used for just about anything (laundry soap, dish soap, body wash, etc), and it’s 100% organic, so it won’t harm the environment. The only thing I don’t recommend it for is shampoo…but that’s another story.
Sandals are your best friend
I usually don’t waste my pack space with sandals, but I’m glad I did for this trip. All of the campsites are pretty spread out, and lots of them are in nice, flat, grassy valleys where it’s perfectly comfortable to walk around in sandals. Given the fact that you are covering some tough terrain on this hike, nothing feels better than getting to camp and not having to put your boots back on until the morning. I honestly can’t tell you how happy I was to be able to walk around camp, explore short, nearby trails and hang out in the mess area in my sandals. Take this tip; your feet will thank you.
After The Trek
So you’ve completed the trek. You’re on the bus or the ferry back to Puerto Natales and probably about to pass out for the rest of the ride back to town. You’re clothes are dirty, your feet are sore, and you would LOVE to sleep in a real bed. Here are my expert tips for self care after you get off the trail:
On your first night back in town, skip the hostel and splurge on a cozy hotel (even if it’s only for one night). Hotels in Puerto Natales are more expensive than some of the other areas near by, but are still really cheap by US and European standards. Having a big cozy bed in a room all to yourself with hot water a-plenty will be worth more than gold to you on your first night off the trail. Budget this expense into your trip. You won’t regret it. Either of the hotels listed above would be great in this capacity.
After you drop your bags and get cleaned up, you’ll be hungry for lunch/dinner depending on what time you got back into town. Treat yourself to the best after-backpacking meal I’ve ever had at Baguales Brewery. Baguales has some of the most amazing burgers and mile high loaded french fries (Mega Papas) along with a great selection of local brews. Top it all off with the rustic atmosphere, the wood fire burning in the courtyard and the 30 other backpackers that are sure to be gathered around the bar telling stories from the trail, and Baguales makes the perfect end cap to an epic adventure.
